Sensorless Homing NeoPixel ESP3D Wifi E3D V6-all metal hotend Hero me gen5 mount Orbiter Extruder with LDO 36STH20-1004AHG TFT50 V3.0 Display (Touch mode is Marlin only) etc. With klipper I also changed from the out of box thermistor to a PT1000 RTD for better accuracy. Klipper Marlin (archived) Based version: Marlin Firmware 2.0.7.2. Z Rail Kit - I did have to take a hacksaw to the mounting plates to allow full travel on the Z axis (I bolted the new plate to the original front plate and just traced the outline) and I had to clip a little bit of plastic off of the back of the Z belt tensioner to make it fit back on.įirmware wise I'm now running Klipper using a Pi3b+, so I've done resonance turning (input shaping) with an ADX元45 accelerometer. I'm probably going to replace it with the one from golfcoast robotics Additional parts required: 4x M3x16mm bolts. Y & X Rails - You'd need 3 total - For the Y axis upgrade I used the Y rail kit from, however I'm a little disappointed with it's quality and was finicky to fit. This part allows the installation of the Orbiter V2 extruder on Ender3 V2s tool head. I've also converted Y and Z to linear rails and will convert X to linear once I have the afterburner printed: Modified bed heater strain relief - moves the strain relief under the bed plate meaning you can have a larger range of travel on the spring Power supply cover mod for better airflow using Noctua A9x14 PWM The common BMG extruder motor gears are an example of this - they are advertised as 3:1 but actually use 50:17 gearing. Squash Ball Feet Mod using these Squash Balls - I did have to clip the corners off of the feet to fit on the back because of the power supply screws I was wondering if anyone knows where I need to change the current of the E stepper for the new LDO Motor. Extruder - This one can be found cheaper elsewhereĬapricorn PTFE - I had this before upgrading the hot end Hello Everyone, I am modifying Marlin for the first time to incorporate my new Orbiter Extruder.
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